Category Archives: HVAC

This stands for Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning. My ‘real world’ career.

Tank Tale 04

So the “new” (used) oil tank went into the basement pretty much the same as the old one came out.  In the garage i switched the wheels to the ‘new’ tank.  Sounds quick except, though the old and new tanks r both 275 gal nominal, same size physically, but, well, the leg mounts were different distances wide.  So had to remount the pipe flanges to new spacing on the 2×4 wheel sets.  Then make sure i brought the replacement in correct end first.  So the end with the connection for the filter / oil line to burner is at the same end as the original.

First i mortared in some patio blocks into the gutter around the basement floor, again becuz the leg mount different width.  Then roll in the tank, hoist and remove wheel sets, skid into place, pipe up fill and vent lines.

Tank in place, lines complete.                                With support straps

So that’s enough about oil tanks.

We got some oil and are now heating the water with oil, not pellets.      😎

Tank Tale 03

Ok so it’s been too long since i added info on the sad tale of the tank.  After i removed the shelf section that was blocking the turning of the tank, i got some wheels.  These were a set i saved (see how good it is to save things!) from a dolly i had made when i installed my pellet boiler.  Ya i have multiple heating plants.  That’s good because the hot water system makes my domestic hot water for showers etc.  So i was running on pellets while my oil tank replacement was replacing.

Anyway i took the wheels off the dolly and made them into 2 sets mounted on 2×4 chunks.  this shot shows my first idea of putting the tank wheels into boxes.  I raised the tank with a come along and then strapped the wheel assembly to the tank.

It seemed ok and i moved the tank like 12 feet.  then i tried to back it up to adjust trajectory.  One wheel set tipped and box broke.  So then plan B.  i found that the 1.25″ pipe legs on the tank fit nicely over 1″ pipe.  I got 1″ nipples and pipe flanges and mounted them to the 2×4 chunks.

  

So the rusty pipes hide the new 1″ nipples that the flanges are screwed into.  A nice solid situation, no wobble.  Then the tank got moved all the way out of the basement.

This is the Ramp i made for the pellet boiler (and Saved!!)

   

Here’s the tank outside.                                          and in the garage:

 

So the tale is almost done.

Tank Tale 02

I inherited some things from my dad.  He was born in 1916, so he spent his mid teens to twenties scratching for necessities of life during the Great Depression.  You may know people who lived that nightmare from 1929 through most or all of the 1930’s, or even into the 1940’s.

They were scarred, their brains turned into amazing machines of how to get by.  How to never, ever waste anything.  Never ever, ever waste.

So among the things i got from my dad was the “Saver Mentality”.  Stuff can be used even when old.  Re-used or made into other useful things, or parts of new things.  See, you thought the 3 R’s were new hip stuff that came maybe from the hippie movement of the 1970’s.  Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.

These are all good things.  We do need to hold true to the 3 R’s, or we will use up and destroy our beautiful earth.  But the original 3 R peeps were not the hippies of the 70’s.  It was those who lived the nightmare of 1929 and the decade after.  Save it, we can use again.  If you reuse things you don’t have to buy them again.  Even the broken things that no longer work can be taken apart and scrapped (recycled!).  My dad made alot of coin by tearing old electric motors (and other broken, or outdated things) apart and separating the copper from the steel to get better prices for the scrap metal.    Save, Save, Save.

Now i don’t like disorganization.  I have many shelves, especially in the basement.  Shelves allow you to save more.  It’s just that i have more to save than i have shelves.  Just so happens that some of the shelves in the basement are in the section where the oil tank is.  One of the sons asked me, “you think the oil tank will fit past the self i front of it?”  I told him – “Ya i think so”.  OK guess again:

Notice how i have hacked the shelf in front of the tank to try and get room to “make the corner”.  N.G.  the tank is lodged against the shelf unit on right, the one in front of it, and the wall behind.  I have already emptied the right side shelf as it needs to be removed.  Such fun!!

 

Tank Tale 01

Involuntary labor.  Forced servitude.  Subjection.  Are we here discussing man’s inhumanity to man?  Nope.  The failure of my fuel oil tank.  How can we use these words, for this subject you say?

Wait, just wait till you hear the tale of woe.

It began one day when i went to check how much oil was left in the tank.  This is a normal operation at my house, as i do not have automatic oil fill up.  I call when i need oil, and to know if i do, the tank is checked with a stick, and the chart consulted to see how many gallons therein.

So as i am checking, i notice the cement under the tank is discolored, damp looking.  I think to myself, my sump pit must be full of water (at the other end of the tank).  Now since i have lived here there has only been water in the sump pit a few times.  Once, maybe twice, have i pumped water out.  But it does happen (rarely), in early spring.  So i quickly go look at the sump pit.  Nothing.  Empty.  Now back to the discolored cement spot.  Looking under the oil tank, there is a drop of oil hanging.  Drip.  Drip.  The discoloration is fuel oil.  Upon further inspection it looks like the tank may be leaking from both the end and the bottom.

So we did not call for any more oil.  I spread absorbent under the tank and placed a shallow pan to catch the drips.  Found a free oil tank on Craig’s List.  Enlisted the aid of my brother in law and got the new (used) tank home.  Then began the sorry chore of ‘making a path’ through my basement.  Some may know the legends of my basement.  The tale of woe begins . . . .

 

The humble Thermocouple, here’s the lowdown about pilot light safety

OK seeing how its still like winter temps outside, we shall now discuss a common heating item you may not know about.  So if you have ever had to light a pilot light for a gas water heater, maybe gas furnace, you have used a thermocouple.  You know the instruction that says “push down, light and HOLD for sixty seconds”?  So here’s why:

A thermocouple is 2 dissimilar metals welded together. Heat the junction, and it makes tiny DC voltage.  Not enough to pull in an electro magnet coil. But enough to hold it in.

 

When u light a pilot, u push down to open a valve. Once there is enough voltage from the thermocouple (once the thermocouple junction is hot enough) the electro magnet coil has enough power to hold the valve open.

If the pilot goes out for any reason the dc voltage quickly drops and the valve closes.

The valve u push down controls gas not only to the pilot but also the main supply to the burner. So the system will not let main gas flow unless the pilot is proven.

A brand new thermocouple will generate enough voltage to do its job quickly, maybe 15-20 seconds. As it ages (how would u like to spent 24-7 in a gas flame?) it generates less and less.

Nominal voltage for this type thermocouple is 30 milivolts. Ya, that’s 0.030 volts.  30 thousandths of a volt.  Kind of amazing right?  So u gotta push the knob to open the valve, then Mr thermocouple will take it from there.  For years.

Btw there are old school systems that have a large enough thermocouple, to generate a large enough voltage (0.750!!) To operate the gas main valve. Those can operate during a power failure.  That’s the picture on the right, notice that its rated 600-750 MV.         Note:  Still less than 1 volt!  3/4 volt actually.

Fyi, there r also thermocouples that r used for temperature measurement.  All you lab folk chime in!!

 

Wood is Good 08 – Tiny Little Logs

Hey have you ever seen tiny wood fuel like these?
BagOWood

Just wanted to show you my other firewood. Compressed sawdust = wood fuel pellets.
Here you see the inside of the Hopper.
PelletHopper2

And here’s my other “woodstove”  – my pellet boiler.

PelletBlr

That’s a woodstove?  Well actually a wood pellet boiler.  Look here’s a look at the fire.

PelletFire

Its automatic, lights itself, maintains temperature.  Connected to my central heat and my hot water for showers etc.  Just one disadvantage – i have to put pellets into it.  And i do have to buy the pellets.  The mighty little woodstove uses mostly free firewood.  So the fuel for the pellet stove comes from the store.  But someday i will get myself a pellet mill.  For sure when i do i will share it with you.

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Wood is Good 07 – Care and Feeding of Little Box Stove

Here’s how I bring my stove from cold, back to hot.  The aftermath of the last fire:

Ashes 1Ashes 2

Waste Not Want Not.  In order not to throw out any fuel, and to reduce waste volume, I remove the ashes but keep the charcoal for the next fire.  Large charcoal is removed with the Screen Scoop, then the rest is put onto the ash can screen with the Tin Scoop.

ScoopsAsh_Can

Then with a little shake the remaining charcoal is separated.  The charcoal is laid in the bottom of the stove.

Ash_CoalsCharcoal

The Wood is placed into the stove, usually 3 pieces.

WoodLoad1WoodLoad2

Next some small fire starters are placed underneath.

MatchReadyPineCone

Secret Weapon:  Pine Cones.  I easily picked up a whole box under the pines at my church. Match light easily!

The dampers are all opened.  Cone is lit and the stove front door is closed.  The front ash tray cover is slid mostly into place.  Within about 2 minutes the fire is starting to crackle and roar.  After 5 or 10 minutes its time to close the ash tray cover, prop it up a little for more air and put all the dampers at about 45 degrees.  Then the stove and stove pipe gets hot. REALLY hot.  Usually i turn on the central fan to circulate the heat better.

The pieces shown will burn for about 2 to 4 hours.  More wood can be put into the stove on the glowing coals without repeating this whole process.  Just open the dampers, rake the coals forward, open the stove and load more wood. Close it up and leave the ash tray cover ajar as in the above description.  Once the fire roars, close/prop the ash tray cover, dampers to 45.  Easy Peasy.

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Wood is Good 06 – Small stove, big heat

Okay as promised here’s my setup for getting the most heat from my woodstove.

Extended flue with dampers. Have a look.

2Damprs

ReturnFlue

WholeFlue

The three dampers slow down the products of combustion (that’s the technical term for smoke etc.)  The flue gets very hot, probably hotter than the stove itself.  And there is more surface area than the stove.

This whole setup is like having two stoves operating at one time, sort of.  The “second stove” doesn’t use any fuel however.  It just gives off heat.

One more thing of note – in the center picture, see that blue area? that’s the inside of my return air duct. A little crude, i made it from aluminum, part of an old pool.  Anyway when i have a nice hot fire going, i can turn on the fan from my central heat / ac system and circulate the heat to the house evenly.  By the way check the last pic.  that blue tank is my water heater, and look! my oil burner. we try not to use that at all.

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Wood is Good 05 – Combustion

Ok time for a little science lesson.  Lets talk about what happens when u burn wood (or similar fuel).

Fire is a chemical reaction.  The components are the fuel, (wood = carbon compounds and volatile substances), Oxygen and Heat.  The heat is necessary to start the chain reaction, then the fire provides its own heat and is self sustaining until the fuel runs out.

Water is not part of the reaction.  It is a hindrance.  Before wet wood can burn, the fire must first dry out the wood enough, to raise the temperature enough, for the wood to burn.  In other words, alot of the heat is lost driving the water out of the wet wood.  That’s heat you will never benefit from, never warm your house.  Its wasted energy, it only vaporizes the water, doesn’t raise the heat level.  So DRY your wood and KEEP IT DRY! (more here, and here)

Now the first thing that happens when wood starts to burn is called out-gassing.  The heat of the fire drives the volatile substances out of the wood.  These compounds are combustible and they ignite and are the source of most (or all?) of the flames you see if you watch the fire.  Here’s where the non-airtight stove is a good thing.  The fire can get the oxygen it needs.

Location, Location, Location.  We’re not talking Real Estate here, like a corner lot for your business.  We’re talking about stove location.  If you are serious about heating your home with a woodstove, the stove belongs in the basement.  Couple of reasons – first of all, heat rises, so it is automatically delivered to your home which is above.  But also very important – when the stove gets all the oxygen it needs, as the wood is out-gassing, that sucker gets VERY VERY HOT.  Notice in the previous post where my stove is, it sits on the basement floor (concrete) next to the furnace (metal).  Non combustible  items.  While you can make a safe place for your stove up in the living area, here are a few more reasons to put it in the basement:  Bark, Sawdust, Ashes.  The vicinity of your stove is difficult to keep clean.  If it’s in your living room that means daily clean up.  Basement?  once a month or so, no sweat.  Also don’t forget possible damage to your floors by hot coals.

So next time we talk about good wood heat, i will show you another trick i use to get that VERY VERY HOT stove to give up the heat to my home.

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Wood is Good 04 – stove

Here’s my mighty little woodstove. This heats my house when it’s above, say, 5 deg f. Now, a little about my house. It is around 3000 square feet, basement and upstairs combined. But it is a super insulated building. We’ll go into the construction at another time.

I will say this though, above about 40 deg f, we don’t need very much added heat. If I try to use the stove when it’s 40 or above, the house over heats.

Woodstove1

I love this little cast iron unit. It does a great job and its easy to use. The front opens of course but the top also swings open as well. This makes it cake to fill. As u look at it u may b thinking it looks old, etc. Well it is not new I bought it used. Not sure how old it is really. The design is certainly old. Just a cast iron box. NOT airtight. U may think this is bad, but it’s ideal.

Next post I’ll tell you that all about it.

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